Section 1 The history of London.
London's docks, as
Théophile Gautier or Charles Dickens would have seen them.
Painting by Atkinson Grimshaw, 1880In 1843, London really was very different from any other city. It was much bigger than any other city, and it was the capital of the most industrialised nation in the world.
It was already a city with a long history, of course. London had become the British capital in Roman times, but since then, it had been built and destroyed and rebuilt so many times that there were few traces left of the capital city of Roman Britain, except deep below the ground.
Today, the oldest buildings in London include the Tower of London and Westminster Abbeybig church, which are almost a thousand years old.
The
Tower of London, built in the 11th centuryperiod of 100 years
Though the Tower was always a part of London, Westminster Abbey was once over a mile from the capital city. For centuries, "London" just covered the area corresponding more or less to the Roman city. Today, this part of London is still called the City of London, and is the heart of the bigger "London".
Until recently, "the City" was home to hundreds of thousands of people; but today its population is actually well less than ten thousand! Today the City is the heart of London's financial district, full of bankers and businessmen by day, almost desertedempty by night.
Back in the Middle Agesthe mediaeval period, about 1000 years ago, the City was already becoming too small. In the 11th century, monksreligious men built a big new abbey at Westminster, and King Cnut began to build a palace beside it. King Ethelred, his successorperson who follows, then decided to move his court from the city of Winchester, to the palace of Westminster. Westminster has been the seat of the English, then British, parliament since 1265, and London has been the capital city for even longer.
While the parliament was established in Westminster, the City's growing population kept spreadingextending to other villages all round. Villages like Chelsea and Hackney eventuallylater, in time became swallowed upto eat, to include by the metropolis which kept growing and growing.
Today, Westminster, which contains Buckingham Palace, Parliament, Big Ben, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, and London's most famous shopping district, is part of the "West End" of Central London. Nearby, Chelsea is an expensive residential area, and Hackney is a working-class district: they are all parts of London.
Poverty in
London around 1870, seen by the artist Gustave DoréIn spite of its age, Central London does not have many very old buildings. The City itself was burnt to the ground in the terrible fire of 1666, and was almost totally rebuilt after it. Large parts of London were also rebuilt in the nineteenth century and have been rebuilt again since then, for different reasons.
Charles Dickens, the author of Oliver Twist and other famous novelsstories, lived in the London that Théophile Gautier visited, and has left us with terrible descriptions of the conditions in which the poor of London lived and worked in those days. Millions of people worked in the great city, with its docks, its offices and shops, and its services. In those days most people who lived in cities were poor, and lived in squaliddirty and unpleasant conditions. But a new "middle class" was growing, specially in London, where there were lots of jobs. In this way, London, the biggest city in the world, was also the first "modern" city.
It remained the world's biggest city until after the second world war.
Since then it has continued to change, but got smaller; but with over seven million inhabitants, today's "Greater London" is, with Paris, one of the two biggest cities in Europe; and also one of the most fascinating.

London is one of the richest cities in Europe, and lots of people in London have plenty of money to spend. But like almost every big city, London has its prosperityrichness, affluence but also its poverty.
Most tourists visit the "West End", with its shops, cinemas, theatres and monuments. This is London's front window, where the streets are clean and most people, including the tourists, have jobs, and money to spend.
Harrod's store, in Knightsbridge, claims it is the most famous shop in the world; in theory you can buy anything there, from an elephant to a pencil (though naturally, they would have to order the elephant specially for you, there are none on the shelves!)
In the small streets behind Regent Street, there are all sorts of specialist shops, selling high-quality products to people who can affordhave enough money for them. "Gentlemen's tailor since 1788," says the sign outside a tiny shop with beautiful suitsmatching jackets and trousers in its window. Expensive suits. Most of this shop's customersclients are businessmen, celebrities and diplomats; here at least, the foreign customer, after his first English lesson, can say "my tailor is rich".
Two miles to the north east of Regent Street, the scene is very different. Here you are in the "inner city" district of London, where many of the streets are dirty, the shops look cheap, and the people do not look rich.
Few tourists visit Islington, Bethnal Green, Brixton and London's other depressed areas. A lot of the inhabitants here are from minorities — mostly West Indianafro-caribbean or Asian — and many of them do not have any work. Those who do have work are often in unskilledvery ordinary, easily learnt jobs which do not pay well; cleaners, dustmenmen who empty dustbins, rubbish, delivery drivers or shop assistants.
Nevertheless, though these areas of London are poor, they cannot be described as ghettoes, and while levels of crime are above averagenormal in many parts of the inner city, these are not dangerous areas. On rare occasions there has been riotingcollective violence and violence in the streets, but in most places the streets are generally calm.
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